Friday, July 04, 2014

Bald in Beijing (Part II)

Back in Sydney, I bought a book called “When China Rules the World” by Martin Jacques. Five months later, sitting on the bus to Guangzhou, I was still slogging through it. Beyond my very limited personal experiences, this book covered the entirety of my knowledge of China. It’s expertly written: detailed, comprehensive, and dauntingly long.

As I sat in Baiyun Airport, mulling over what I had read, I realized what would become the most difficult part in retelling my story. I became convinced that within my lifetime, China would claim the authoritative lead now held by the United States. As it stands, much of the West rejects this out of hand, but there in the airport, I thought about how my life might fit this new world. I was motivated to learn international policy and foreign investment. I can adapt, right? At the same time, I was also intimidated enough to wonder if I could hole up in some rural Canadian town for the rest of my life. With my plane being delayed due to “weather conditions,” I had plenty of time to think.  

***

Finally arriving in Beijing at 3 a.m., I looked around for a sign with my name. I had asked the hostel to pick me up, but no one seemed to be there for me. I called the hostel and was told that the driver didn’t wait because of the flight delay. Wasn’t the point of asking for my flight information to keep an eye on schedule changes? I was out of luck and had to fend for myself.

Taxi drivers stood on the medium outside of Arrivals and many of them jumped at the chance to drive me. I was planning to pay 260 yuan for the hostel driver to take me after midnight – overpriced I knew, but safe. Well, it was a price point. I started to follow one driver who offered a flat rate of 200 yuan. He walked to the left, away from the other parked taxis and into the darkness. I waved my hands in dismissal and turned my suitcase around. I walked back to the group of taxi drivers, again, all fighting for my business, but offering the same price of 200 yuan. Another driver started to lead me off to the right – same deal. I wasn’t going to risk disappearing into the night for a price that would undoubtedly change. I turned back and tried talking to a parked cabbie. He had a meter and that’s all I cared for.

The driver agreed to take me, though when he pulled off to the side of the road, already far away from the airport, I realized he still didn’t know exactly where he was going. I risked giving him my phone with the address and after a long stare, he started driving again. The hostel was 40 minutes away; that I knew. So, I had at least that long before I could officially start panicking. I tried to follow the signs, but it was useless. I had to hope for the best.

The drive seemed to be going well. The buildings around us seemed to be getting denser, so I could at least assume I was nearing the city centre. It wasn’t until the taxi turned down a small, dark alleyway that my senses heightened again. I could tell that the road was very narrow – barely enough room for one car – but nothing else besides. I tried to think about what I could do if this went sour, but what? If he decided to pull down some random back alley, asked me to get out by gunpoint, and drove off with my suitcase still in his trunk, what choice did I have? I’d be stranded without my things, in a city where the language wasn’t based off of Latin in any way. It barely crossed my mind that my hostel would be down the alley... which it was. The meter read 125 yuan – over 50% off! And he didn’t even change the price!


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