I am quite
indebted to the other travellers for knowing where they were going. It was over
a cup of coffee with an American that I was invited on this expedition and,
perhaps by choice, I remained ignorant of all the plans except the destination:
Lugano, Switzerland.
Our trip
there was hectic; nine of us ran from one train to the next. The ticket machine
at the first station didn’t work, so we saved a couple euros. Another going
into Switzerland seemed high-class and we got our own two cabins after some
gypsies were kicked off the train for not having tickets. The scene outside was
fantastic. Lush, green hills rose around us as we entered the Lugano Prealps.
The day was
cool and overcast. We walked a short distance to the Montarina Hostel which,
with its pink cemented facade and palm tree-lined pathways, reminded me Cozumel,
Mexico. Up until this point, it was my intent to return to Castellanza at the
end of the day. I had brought nothing with me except a knapsack with a
sketchpad and pen. But, there was space available in the room and the
surroundings were beautiful, so why not?
Another thing
I had also not intended was to scale Monte San Salvatore. A man who gave us
directions to the base suggested we take the lift up and do the descent
instead. I’m glad we took his advice. I was ill-prepared for such a climb,
wearing jeans and boat shoes. Another testament to my savvy leaders was the 5
euros per ticket we saved by including two guys in the line behind us.
The views
were stunning! The group took a quick lunch break and I slipped off to start a sketch.
Tiny white boats cruised a dark lake that filled in around the many hills. Strewn
along the base were ports and houses, and a long highway stretched across the lake
from one hill to another. As we trekked down San Salvatore, we were blessed
with many such views, but each with a uniqueness that barred us from skipping a
single lookout. Two hours and half a dozen photo shoots later, we found
ourselves again at the bottom of the hill.
Here I must
commend the city of Lugano as it appears at street level. It is probably the
most litter-free city that I have ever visited. It does have some graffiti, but
it is by no means the main decor. The luxury cars are of a proper size by
American standards and although 90% of them had Italian license plates, I did
not fear for my life when taking a crosswalk. The cemented architecture could
be said to be the same as any northern Italian city, but being in the hills
made the views more majestic. One last thing that drew me to Switzerland was
that signs were often posted in German, French, Italian, and/or English, all
the languages I have had some (if only minor) schooling in.
At this time,
we split up and decided to reconvene at the hostel once the shops closed. I
indulged in a cake-flavoured gelato, the best that I have had so far, and
perused a mall for some short while. A matter which I would take some time
getting used to was the liberalness of shoppers. Not in there dress, for they
were quite conservative in that regard, but I was put off seeing dogs and kids
riding scooters through the outlet. It was out of place and unusual to me.
For dinner, we
went to a basement restaurant called La Tinera. Without exaggeration, it was
the best meal I’ve had in a long time. I had a pork cutlet, some mush of
vegetables and an Italian blond beer to wash it down. That’s certainly not the
most enticing description, but I can assure you I’m salivating at the memory. My
only disappointment was that I wasn’t allowed to pay by credit card despite
being over the minimum limit. Not having any euros or Swiss francs, I had to
borrow money and I’m sure me repaying that debt was more of a hassle than the
server would have faced by taking some time to get the credit machine out.
As a nice end to the night, three of us walked along the water. The hills across
the lake were only outlined by the lights of a few buildings and even those
would disappear every now and again behind some unseen slopes. On our side were
modern sculptures and fancy hotels. The air was cool and the company was
pleasant. Our pace was slow and in my mind was again that resonant awe. I am
here. I am in good company. I am at peace.
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